Sewing machine



May 9, 1939.

J. P. WEIS' SEWING MACHINE Filed March 16, 1935 12 Sheets-Sheet l Illlll f omm BQK INVENTOR John RWeas ATTORNEY J. P. WEIS SEWING MACHINE May 9, 1939.

Filed March 16, 1935 12 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR John P M13 BY a ATTORNEY J P. WEIS SEWING MACHINE May 9, 1939.

Filed March 16, 1935 May 9, 1939. J. P. WEIS 2,157,369

SEWING MACHINE Filed March 16, 1955 12 Sheets-Shet 4 INVENTOR John Ewen:

J. P, WEIS SEWING MACHINE May 9, 1939.

Filed March 16, 1955 l2 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR John WM ATTORNEYX May 9, 1939. P, was 2,157,369

' SEWING MACHINE Filed March 16, 1935 12 Sheets-Sheet 6 IN VENT OR John PW:

May 9, 1939. J. P. WEIS 2,157,369

SEWING MACHINE Filed March 16. 1955 12 Sheets-Sheet 7 IN VEN TOR John P Wet:

WMQEX E V ATTORNEY J. P. WEIS SEWING MACHINE May 9, 1939.

Filed March 16, 1935 l2 Sheets-Sheet 8 NVENTOR. John P in; Wm ATTORNEYS.

12 Sheets-Sheet. 9

INVENTOR. John Pwols 4 B Y .{ITTORNEX v J.P. WEIS SEWING MACHINE Filed March 16, 1935 May 9, 1939.

V/ l/A a 525 a May 9, 1939.

. J. P. WEIS 2,157,369

SEWING MACHINE Filed March 16, 1935 12 Sheets-Sheet 10 IN V EN TOR. John P We ATTORNEY May 9, 1939. J P, w s 2,157,369

SEWING MACHINE Filed March 16 1935 12 Sheets-Sheet ll I 1?.0 5 1 In. as 4 :2. I32. 82.- m: /355 I w i\ I33 I31 I m-Q- IN VEN TOR. John P. Weis ATTORNEY May 9, 1939. J. P. was 2,157,369

SEWING MACHINE IER John P. Weis WMREQL M A TTORNE Y Patented May 9, I939 UNITED STATES amazes.

SEWING MACHINE John P. Weil, Nyack, N. Y., minor to Willcox a'Glbbs Sewing Machine Company, New York,

N. Y., a corporation Application March 16,

This invention relates to improved sewing machines and particularly to improvements in overedge sewing machines.

Overedge sewing machines of various types are 5 now in general use in divers trades. Even though most of these machines form a satisfactory overedge seam, usually separate machines are required for single, double, and triple overedge seams, and usually each has one or more design or operation 1 shortcomings.

It is an important object of the present invention to provide a highly practical and efiflclent single overedge sewing machine which is equally' capable of sewing an'overedge seam with single,

double, or triple threads and to form different types of double and triple thread seams (e. g. Federal standard stitches 501, 502, 503, 504, and 505). Heretofore it has been customary to provide, purchase, and use separate machines for 20 single, double, and triple thread seam requirements, thus necessitating a very substantial and in some instances prohibitive investment in sew ing machines and resulting in both idle and overtaxed conditions with each type of machine dependent upon the daily runs of work.

In overcoming these disadvantages and in meeting this object, the present invention provides a' simple and highly efllcient single sewing machine capable of forming single, double, and triple 30 thread stitches, with the novel feature of an extremely simple stitch forming mechanism wherein it is necessary only to change the loopers and none of the other operating parts when'changing from one to-the other of single, double, or triple 35 thread stitches, and to merely regulate the thread tensions when it is desired to alter thetype of double or triple thread seam.

Itpis another very important object of the present invention to provide a sewing machine capabe 4 of operating at very high speeds with ase and quietness, and with minimum vibration d wear. Features of this invention related to the accomplishment of this object include: the provision of an overedge sewing machine with comparatively 45 few parts; and trains of feeding, sewing, trimming, and like mechanisms having few, relatively short and positively driven operating parts.

The usual top operating speed for all previous overedge sewing machines has been around 4000 50 R. P. M. and they usually fail completely at a.

sustained speed of 5000 R. P. M. because of vibration, lack of lubrication, and similar factors. Yet,

machines embodying the present invention have been operated at both intermittent and sustained ,5 speeds of more than 6000 R. P. M. for days, and

of New York I 1935, Serial No. 11,488 (Cl.112-123) at speeds of 7000 R. P. M. and more for less sustained periods with substantially no vibration, wear, orlubrication trouble.

- Even though the present invention provides a sewing machine adapted to sew a wide variety of o stitches, and to do this at exceptionally high speeds, it is an aim of the present invention to provide a machine that will be small, sturdy, and free of vibration and noise. A complementary aim is to provide a machine which will enclose l0 practically all of its moving parts, and which will not impede the operator in natural working movements.

In many present day overedge sewing machines upper, lower, and intermediate drive shafts are provided. In others, where only one main drive shaft is provided it is: necessarily built up in sections or is wide spaced and yielding between bearings, both factors tending to slow up the machine; or, provided with a separate eccentric for each main mechanism which. makes the shaft exceedingly long and the machine exceedingly wide.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a machine with only one drive shaft, which: may be made in substantially one piece; will be sturdy, well balanced, thoroughly lubricated; will be free of vibration, wear, and end play; has a minimum number of eccentrics so that the machine may be small.

Features of the present invention which meet this object include: a ball bearing supported main drive shaft; bearings between each pair of eccentrics to reduce springing and vibration; a

drive shaft supporting structure to flood the bearings with oil; the provision of a substantially in. tegral adjustable eccentric on the drive shaft for varying the extent of feed-rocking movement; hearings or supports close to the eccentrics so that only one eccentricmay be used to drive both the needle operating and the trimming mechanism; and a drive shaft which may advantageously be made from one piece.

Another very important object of the present invention is to provide an improved sewing mechanism wherein the needle, which must always be moved through a considerable path, and the loopers which cooperate therewith, will have a minimum of inertia and overthrow, so that the machine may be operated at high speeds with a minimum of vibration and wear.

The present invention meets this object by providing a sewing mechanism wherein: the needle carrier is of small size and moves through a comparatively small path so thatthere is no inertia ated trimmer absorbs problem; direct; ithe below t e work plate rather than as usual above it, so that there is no danger of oil dropplnl down onto the work.

The structure produces a balanced motion, because the power required to operate the associthe driving connection a substantially motion of the needle drive between the two power movements; viz., maximum power for the needle comes at both ends of its movement.

Another feature of this improved sewing mechanism is that all of the main operating parts of the, looper mechanism, section of the sewing mechanism, are driven from the same main drive shaft as the needle, and all the bearings thereof are substantially in a bath of oil. Also, the looper mechanism is such that the change-over to single. double, or triple thread seams may be easily and quickly effected and so that the threading .thereof may be done advantag Yet another object is to provide an improved trimming mechanism which will, be free of vibration, out clean, be positivein its cutting action and be in absolute synchronism with the needle, and which will retain these desirable characteristics even though it is adjustable relative to the point of needle puncture.

In meeting this object the present invention provides three forms of trimming mechanism all of which are driven directly from the needle operating mechanism to have absolute synchronism between the needle and cutter so that there will be no puckering of materials-thereby advantageously dispensing with one crank on the main drive shaft. Also, it provides a trimming mechanism which is easily and positively adjustable laterally relative to the needle and to the line of feed, and wherein the driving connection is near the cutter and remote from the cutter pivot so that vibration is reduced.

Dependent upon the article being sewed,'and the effect wanted, it is desirable to shift the trimmer and the presser foot device relative to the line of stitching, to have a wide and/or narrow overcast thread, seam, or margin. Hereto-- fore it has been customary to shift the presser and the trimmer individually, by hand and by guessing, and to depend on springs for eifecting a movement in one or both directions.

It is an object oi the present invention to provide a shifting mechanism adapted to: move the presser foot device and trimmer simultaneously; eliminate guessing relative to the extent of shifting; obviate uncertain dependence upon springs or the like; allow the presser device and trimmer to function efficiently in all their working positions; be moved to predetermined or set positions quickly.

To meet this object the present invention provides several novel features, viz.: a quickly interchangeable hand and foot control; shifting mechanism dispensing with all springs for ad vancing and/or returning the presser device and the trimmer; a pointer and graduations to indicate the extent of shifting; a flange and slot connection for both pushing and pulling the presser device and trimmer coordinately.

Other objects, features, and advantages will be apparent or will appear hereinafter.

In the drawings which merely illustrate the present preferred form of the invention:

Figure 1 is a front plan view'of the overedge sewing machine embodying in the present invenmain pivot of the needle carrier is' the racing and accelerated Fig. 2 is a top view of the sewing machine shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 8 is a side view of the sewing machine.

Fig. 4 is a sectional view of the differential feeding mechanism and the lubricating mechanism. mainly on line 4-4 in Figs. 1, 2, 'I, and 10.

Fig. 5 is a sectional view illustrating the needle and trimmer operating mechanism and the lubricating system, mainly, taken on line 5-5 in Figs. 1, 2, '7, and 9.

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary detail view of the needle and trimmer operating mechanism in the down or operative position.

Fig. '1 is a top view similar to Fig. 2 but with the work table removed.

Hg. 8 is a fragmentary detail view of the looper thread guide and lower trimmer blade-supporting means.

Fig. 9 is a sectional view through-the center of the main drive shaft, looking toward the rear of the sewing machine.

Fig. 10 is a sectional view taken on line Ill-l0 in Fig. 2.

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary detail, partly in section, of the looper driving mechanism taken on line llii in F18. 10.

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary detail of the differential feeding mechanism.

Fig. 12A discloses a modified form of feed do and feed dog carrier.

Fig. 12B discloses a modified form of presser foot mechanism.

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary and sectional view of one part of the feeding mechanism, taken on line i3-l3 in Fig. 4.

Fig. 14 is a detail of the needle driving mechanism in the raised or inoperative position.

tive to the lower looper.

Fig. 16 is a detail of the overedge looper.

Fig. 17 is a detail of the lower looper.

Fig. 18 is a fragmentary detail of the differential feeding mechanism.

Fig. 19 is a diagrammatic view of the threading and thread controls.

Fig. 20 is a detail of the thread take-up.

Fig. 21 is a fragmentary detail of the lower and overedge loopers, and means for facilitating threading.

Fig. 22 is a sectional detail of the overedge looper's thread guard.

Fig. 23 is a fragmentary detail of the special thread control provided by the present invention, in the raised or light tension position.

Fig. 24 is a view similar to Fig. 23 but shows the tension in the lowered or tight tension position.

Fig. 25 is a fragmentary detail view of the present preferred form of trimmer drive.

Fig. 26 is a front view of the trimmer shown in Fig. 25.

Fig. 27 is a view similar to Fig. 25, but of a modified form of trimmer drive.

Fig. 28 is a fragmentary detail taken on line 28-28 in Fig. 2'7.

Fig, 29 is a detail view similar to Fig. 25 but of a rack and segment type of trimmer drive mechanism.

Fig. 30 is a detail view of one part of the lubricating system.

Fig. 31 is a sectional view taken on line 3i-3l in Figs. 2 and '7.

' shifting mechanism.

Fig. 36 is a detail view of another form of shifting mechanism.

Fig. '37 shows the adjustment control for the shifting mechanism.

Fig. 38 is a fragmentary detail view of the loopers used for forming a single thread overedge seam.

Fig. 39 is an enlarged view of the single thread overedge seam formed by the machine of the present invention,

Fig. 40 is a detail view of the loopers provided by the present invention to form a double threa overedge seam.

Fig. 41 is an enlargedview of one form of double thread overedge seam.

Fig. 42 is-a view similar to Fig. 40 but shows a modified looper arrangement for forming a slightly different type of double thread seam.

Fig. 43 is an enlarged view of the modified form of double thread overedge seam.

Fig. 44 is a fragmentary view of the main form of looper used with the present invention for forming triple thread overedge seams.

Fig. 45 is an enlarged view of one form of triple thread overedge seam formed by the present in vention.

Fig. 46 is a view similar to Fig. 45 and shows a modified form of triple thread overedge seam formed by the present invention.

The detailed description which follows is under various headings to facilitate an understanding of the various mechanisms and their mode of operation. The present invention is not limited to the details of construction and arrangement of parts illustrated and described herein, for the invention is capable of other embodiments in whole or part, in sewing machines other than those of overedge type. Therefore the phraseology used is for the purpose of description and not of limitation.

Main frame and general structure The sewing machine embodying the present invention comprises a main frame 58 having a bottom andhaving front, rear, left side, and rightside walls 52, 53, 54, and 55 respectively, preferably forming a reservoir 56 for lubricant 51. A plug 51' may be provided to occassionally draw off the lubricant. A glass insert 58 may be provided to indicate the level of lubricant in the reservoir. Rubber or other resilient plugs 49 in bosses 49' are provided to minimize vibration between the machine and bench.

A work platelill is supported on the main frame 58 by preferably spaced pivot connections 6|, including suitable rearwardly projecting lugs 62 on the main frame 58 and cooperatinglugs 63 on the work plate 60 with shoulder screws 64 therebetween, as may be seen best in Figs. 2 and 3. A shoulder -65 on the work plate is adapted to engage the underside of the lugs 62 (Fig. 3) to limit movement of the work plate 68 into a raised inoperative position, as when it is desired to make repairs.

It should be noted also that the work plate 88 of the present invention is provided with a plurality of channels, 66, 61', 51', and 68, adapted to very efliciently lubricate the various operating instrumentalities, as will be described much more completely hereinafter. Preferably; the work plate is provided with a depending apron ll to prevent oilspray from'leaking out through the joint between the work plate 60 and the rear wall 58, and particularly to throw the spray between the moving parts within the machine itself.

The work plate 58 may be locked relative to the main frame 50. In its present preferred form (Figs. 1 and 7) this is accomplished by providing a pin 14 in the work table adapted to enter a cooperating aperture in the main frame 58 whereupon a beveled end ll thereof pushes a catch 15, best seen in Figs. 1 and 7, in a clockwise direction about a pivot 15' against the pressure of a spring 18 until the work plate is fully in the down position, whereupon the catch I5 is urged into a suitable groove in the pin 14 by the spring 18.

The wide spaced'hinges II, and the pin connection and catch just described, rigidly support the plate and frame relative to each other and prevent adverse rattling or vibration.

In order to provide an effective oil seal between the main frame 58 and the work plate 58 and also to provide a very effective noise and vibration absorber, the present .invention provides a cork,

felt or like pad 18, preferably located in a suitable channel H in the top edge of the various sides 52 through 55. The underside of the work plate rests upon this pad, which in the concave section 12 (Figs. 7 and 10) of the frame supports the bearing cap 13 and prevents oil leakage past it.

The work plate 88, preferably, and as shown, is adapted to advantageously support a trimming mechanism TI, thread control mechanism 18, a presser device 19, and a trimming mechanism and presser device shifter 88 on its upper side, and to support a main drive shaft 8| and associated needle operating, looper, differential feeding and main driving mechanisms 82, 83, 84, and 85 respectively of its underside. All of these mechanisms will-now be described in detail.

Main driving mechanism Figs. 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, and 10, preferably comprises a substantially one piece main drive shaft 8| having a split sleeve bearing 86 near the middle and having a ball bearing 81 at the right side and a similar ball bearing 88 on the left side. The bearings 86 and 88 are supported and clamped in suitable bores 86 and 88' between the work plate 68 and cap sections 89 and 90 of a suspended housing 9| as by screws 92, and the remaining bearing 81 is similarly supported and clamped in acoaxial bore 93 between a cap 13 and the work plate 58 by screws 94.

Axial movement of the main drive shaft 8|, seen best in Fig. 7, may be prevented by one or more of the following: the ends of the split bearin 86 engaging flanges on the main driveshaft; the flange 95 and pulley hub 96 engaging the bearing 81; the hub 91 and head 98 at the left end of the main drive shaft 8| engaging the bearing 88.

A main drive pulley 99 is secured to the right end of the drive shaft in any suitable'manner:

main drive shaft by a screw I85, entering a suitable spline or hole for relative arcuate locating and a screw I01 to prevent relative axial movement as may be seen best in Figs. 7 and 12. The section I03 is a shank integral with the head 88.

Occasionally it may be desirable to effect major changes in the feed. For example, it may be desirable to change the machine from 10 stitches per inch as provided by the control, to 15 stitches per inch. According to the present invention this is accomplished by a slide connection I08, between the eccentric I04 and the head 88, comprising a T shaped tongue and slot connection I08.

A screw IIO associated with the tongue and slotconnection I09 and held against axial movement in the large head 88 is provided to regulate the position of the eccentric I04 while a nut III and washer H2 at the outer end thereof are adapted to rigidly clamp the eccentric against a face on the head 88 to maintain it in the adjusted position. By tightening the nut III' lightly a snug slidable fit is provided for the eccentric, in which a screw driver may be passed through a hole H3 in the work plate 60 to adjust the eccentric without lifting the work plate or disassembling the machine. The eccentric I04 is a sleeve adapted to be located various distances from the axis of the main drive shaft and to be snugly or rigidly maintained in the adjusted position.

Thus, the present invention provides an adjustable main driving eccentric I04 on the main drive shaft 8I adapted to impart various extents of motion to the feeding mechanism 84, asmore fully described hereinafter.

Oil retainers II4 may be provided in the ball bearings 87 and 88 to prevent oil from escaping. The bearing cap 13 is provided with a collar II5 extending from within the frame to a position overlying the side wall of the main frame, as may be seen best in Fig. 7, adapted to engage with and rest upon the cork or similar pad I0 underlying it in a channel coextensive with the channel H. In addition to the adjustable eccentric I04 just described in detail, the main drive shaft is provided with a feed lift crank IIS and an upper looper crank III on the left side of the bearing 86 and with a combination needle and trimmer operating crank H8 and a lower looper crank IIS on the right side as may be seen best in Figs. 5, 6, '7, 9, and 10.

N edle operating mechanism I travel through a considerable path in order to clear the materials during the feeding operation, to pull sufiicient thread for succeeding stitches, and to pass completely through the materials in order to cooperate with a lower looper, there is the danger of having the needle carrier of considerable length in order to effect a proper drive. In fact most overedge sewing machines, in which a curved needle is used, have needle carrying arms pivoted as much as three to five inches in back of the needle working point. Consequently, with such a long arm, there is considerable material to be moved each time the needle is reciprocated and the problem of adverse inertia is When long needle carrying arms are provided there is a danger also of overthrow, excess needle travel, or misalignment of the needle relative to the cooperating loopers due to the natural yielding or vibrating of a long arm when operated at high speeds. Another disadvantage in this usual type of structure is that the needle carrying arm is normally pivoted above the work plate and since it must be lubricated, there is danger of oil dropping or being thrown onto underlying materials. All of these disadvantages are overcome in an efficient manner by the present invention; for the needle operating mechanism 82 in its present preferred form comprises a substantially direct drive for a needle with very short operating connections so that mass and inertia are reduced to a minimum. The structure also produces a balanced motion, desirable for high speed operation. Further, the main pivotal connection for the needle carrier in order to eflect arcuate movement thereof, is so constructed that the main bearings thereof have a full force-feed lubrication and because the main pivot thereof is located below the top surface of the work plate there is no danger of oil dripping down onto the materials being sewed.

This novel needle-operating mechanism comprises a needle carrier I2I having a preferably integral shaft I23 pivotally supported for arcuate movement in bearings I24 and I25 on the underside of a top housing I28 secured to the work plate 80 by screws I21, as may be seen best in Fig. 31 and also in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, and 9. The needle I20 may be clamped in a suitable hole of the carrier arm I22 by a nut I28. The top housing is provided with depending lugs forming the bearings I24 and I25.to pivotally support the shaft I23 of the needle carrier I2I. A rearwardly extending arm I29 is secured to the shaft I23 by a yoke I30 and screw I3I to holdan eccentric I32 against the left side of the housing I26 and thereby prevent axial movement.

A duct I33, closed at the end 'by a plug I34, extending through the shaft I23 through a hole I35, joins with the oil groove 68 in the housing I28 and work plate in order to effectively oil the bearings I24 and I25 and the eccentric I32 through suitable oil escape apertures I38, I31, and I38 respectively. If any oil drips out of these bearings it will merely drop onto other operating mechanism or into the reservoir 56, and cannot fail on the work. By having the shaft integral with the needle carrier I2I there is no danger of relative shifting. Since the shaft I23 is, according to the present invention, disposed very close to the path of travel of the materials being sewed and close to the point of stitch formation, the carrier arm I22 may, as shown, be made very small, short, and light.

In order to impart oscillatory movement to the needle I20 and carrier arm I22 from the raised inoperative position shown in Fig. 5 to the lowered operative position shown in Fig. 6, the present invention provides a very short crank connection I38 comprising a crank-arm I40 secured to the crank I I8 as by a conventional cap I and screws I42 and joined by a. pivot stud I43 to the rearwardly extending arm I28 as may be seen in Figs. 5, 6, and 9 particularly, thus providing very short and substantially direct driving connections with very little inertia.

Trimming mechanism The trimming mechanism 'I'I also forms an especially important part of the present invention and should therefore also be particularly noted. It is best shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3,5, 6, 25, 26, and 31 in its present preferred form and in Figs. 27, 28, and 29 in two modified forms. 3

The novel construction and means of operation illustrated in Figs. 25 and 2'7, produce a balanced motion, because the power required to operate the trimmer 'II absorbs the racing and accelerated motion of the needle drive 52 between the two power moments. That is to say, the maximum power in operating-a needle comes at both ends of the movement, during the reversal thereof. The tendency is for the parts to overreach their stroke at the reversal of the movement. The idle period of power between the two ends of the stroke is utilized to drive the trimmer..

- Thus, the needle stroke is harnessed with the is but V The timed relations of the respective movements are such as to permit the needle to pick up motion through its arc of travel before the trimmer begins its cutting action on the work, as when the eccentric I32 reaches the high point shown in Fig. 5 it moves tlfi needle I25 through a considerable path while the trimmer 1! remains substantially stationary.

In Fig. 25, the eccentric or crank I52 oscillates with the needle drive shaft I25. Its position with respect to the-connection I45 and the'driving arm I29 secured to the shaft I23 is such as to bring about a fair balance of the moving weight of the parts so that at high speed, vibration and noise are almost-entirely eliminated.

In the preferred form it comprises an upper movable cutter I44 having an adjustable connection I45 with a cutter carrier arm I45 mounted for pivotal and axial movement on a shaft I4 which has pivotal and axial movement in upstanding lugs I45 and I45 on the work plate 55.

Although the cutter carrier arm' I45 is of substantial length, a driving connection I55 is provided intermediate its length, remote from shaft I 41 and close to the cutter I44, so that the arm will not yield or vibrate to the same extent as it would if the driving connection I55 extended to the shaft I41 rather than the arm, or were located behind the shaft.

A lower cutter I5I (best seen in Figs. 1, 5, 8, and 26) comprises a blade secured in a lower cutter carrier I52 as by a holding screw I53 in a channel I54. Preferably it is provided with anintegral finger piece I55 at its lower end adapted to facilitate vertical shifting of the cutter in the channel. The lower cutter carrier is provided with a tongue I55 entering a channel in the underside of the work plate 50 and with a secondary tongue I 55 entering a channel I59 in a retaining plate I55 secured to a depending front wall I5I on the work plate (Fig. 5). These channels permit the carrier to be slid transversely relative to the line of feed. A spring I52 secured at one end to thedepending wall I5I, and at its other end to a pin I53 on the carrier I52 (Figs. 2

and 5) yieldingly pulls and maintains the lower cutter IN in good shearing engagement with the upper cutter I44.

A depending finger I54 on the upper cutter is always in engagement with the lower cutter III so' that, the spring I52 will not pull the lower cutter out of shearing engage-- ment or into a position directly underlying the upper cutter.

The driving connection I55 for the upper cutter I44 is very efficient and advantageous. It comprises a crank arm I55 having a bearing I55 at its lower end adapted to receive the eccentric I52 on the shaft I 25 of the needle carrier .I2I and at its upper end having a pivotal connection 151 to the cutter carrier arm I45 as by a stud I58 (Fig. 25) The bearing I 55 may be made integral with the crank-arm I55 so that the eccentric. I52 may be slid into the bearing prior to tightening the arm I25 on the shaft I25.

Fig. 31. clearly illustrates how the stud I55 has ah axially sliding fit with a bore I59 in the cutter carrier I45 so'that the trimming mechanism II may be shifted laterally relative to the needle. 5 Y As the needle carrier I2I is oscillated, the eccentric I52 through the crank-arm I55 imparts absolute coordinate movement to the carrier I45 and cutter I44. Thus, there is no danger of the cutter worldng at the time the feeding mechanism is advancing the material, which would cause the material to pucker. As the eccentric I32 is given a clockwise movement as viewed in Fig.5, the crank-arm I55-moves arm I45 and cutter I44 into operative cutting engagement with the lower cutter I 5| as shown in Fig. 6, and as the eccentric is given a counter-clockwise movement the crank-arm in turn lifts the cutter into the raised inoperative position shown in Fig. 5. Thus, the present invention provides a very advantageous cutter operating mechanism having a direct operating connection and association with the needle operating mechanism so that there is absolute synchronism between these two. This feature also has the very real advantage of eliminating the need of providing an additional separate crank on the main drive shaft for the trimming mechanism which would tend to increase its cost, necessitate widening the machine, and other similar disadvantages.

Relatively little movement occurs at the pivotal connection I51 between the crank-arm I55 and I the cutter carrier arm I45, and consequently no problem of lubrication is involved. However, at the lower end of the crank-arm there is a considerable extent of movement between the eccentric I52 and bearing I55, and these parts are thoroughly lubricated by the provision of the oil conducting aperture I55 extending from the bore I55 in the shaft I22 (Fig. 25) Thus, the. present invention provides a well lubricated and very eihcient trimming mechanism 11 which is actuated directly by the needle operating mechanism 52. i

Figs. 27 and 28 show another form of driving connection for a modified form of trimming mechanism I'Ia. which likewise has the advantages of being driven by the needle'operating ing connection I5I|a for the cutter carrying arm I45a through the provision of a stud III] on the upper end of the needle arm adapted to ride in a shaped channel III as is clearly apparent in Figs. 27 and 28. This shaped channel is disposed so that when the needle arm I22a Is in the raised inoperative position shown by full lines in Fig. 2'1,

it will raise the movable cutter into the inoperative position, and when in the lowered position shown by, dot-and-dash lines I12 in Fig. 27, it moves the needle arm into the position shown by dot-and-dash lines, it simultaneously moves the cutter I44 into its lowered operative position.

n anism serves to drive the trimming mechanism.

This modified form of trimmer drive mechanism is closer to that form shown in Figs. 2'1 and 28 than to the form shown in Fig. since it, too, dispenses with the use of an eccentric I82 and crank arm I88 on the shaft I28 of a needle carrier and provides a direct connection between a modified form of needle arm I22!) and modified form of cutter carrier arm I48b.

In detail, this modified form of driving connection comprises a gear segment I18 formed on a hub of the needle arm I22b, adapted to engage with a rack I14 portion of a downwardly proiecting finger I18 on the cutter carrier arm I48b. As the needle arm I22b is oscillated in a counterclockwise direction, the gear segment I18 engaging with the rack I14 lifts the cutter carrier into the raised inoperative position shown in Fig. 28, and when it is oscillated in a clockwise direction the cutter arm I48b is moved to the position shown by dot-and-dash lines I18. The gear segment I18 and rack I14 permit lateral shifting of the cutter carrier 81) relative to the needle.

Presser device The presser device 18 which may be seen best in Figs. 1, 2, and 3 comprises a carrier'l88 secured on a rod III by a screw I82, the rod having axial and rotary movement in the upstanding lugs I48 and I48 on the upper side of the work plate 88. As may be seen best in Figs. 1 and 3, the carrier block is provided with a finger I88 having a channel I84 adapted to receive a spring carrierarm I88 and to locate it against lateral displacement while a screw I88 holds it against vertical displacement relative to the block. Divers presser feet I81 may be secured to the front end of the spring carrier-arm as by a pin connection I88. The long spring I88 enables the presser foot I81 to exert substantial pressure on the materials in their relation with the feed dogs I88 and/or I88 of the feeding mechanism 84, yet enables the presser foot to yield for cross seams, supplementary thicknesses, etc. in the work as it is fed rearwardly through the machine.

The main pressure of the presser foot toward the work plate is accomplished by a coil spring I8I located in a suitable bore I82 in the carrier block I88 as may be seen best in Figs. 2 and 3, preferably having a ball I88 at the lower end adapted to slide over the work plate. 88. The bore I82 prevents 'the spring from tilting and cramping the carrier block, while a screw stud I84 permits various pressure adjustments.

Secondary pressure control is provided by a regulating screw I88 on a finger I88 portion of the carrier block. This screw may be made long enough to engage the spring carrier-arm I88 and may, as shown, be provided with a lock nut I81 *to maintain the screw in adjusted position. This regulating structure also serves the advantageous purpose of preventing adverse strains on the screw I88, since a considerable lifting leverage might be applied thereto because of the sub stantial length between the screw I88 and the presser foot I81. p

In the modified form of presser device 18' shown in'Fig. 128 the carrier-arm I88 is in the form of a flat spring clamped in the channel I84 with the screw I88, and having an interponent I88 secured thereto by a screw I88 holding -a presser foot I81. Particularly it provides an auxiliary spring 888 in order to obtain the desirable action of a leaf spring effect between the carrier block I88 and the presser foot I81. This secondary spring is preferably connected to the carrier-arm I85 in the channel I84 with the screw I88, and is provided with a bowed section 28I under the adjusting screw I88. Spring 288 has an upturned end 282 which bears upon the carrier-arm I88, making it possible to use a much lighter weight material in the spring carrier-arm I88 and thereby obtaining better yielding action in the presser device.

As shown in Figs. 2 and 3, an arm 288 extending rearwardly of the carrier block I88 is provided to lift the presser foot into an inoperative position relative to the work plate 88. Preferably, it is provided with any usual type of foot treadle connection.

The presser devices of the present invention are more completely disclosed in my copending application Serial No. 86,922, filed June 24, 1936.

Trimmer and presser device shifting mechanism It is extremely desirable in overedge machines to provide mechanism adapted to shift the trimming mechanism 11 and presser device 18 laterally relative to the line of stitching and feed, so that overedge seams of various widths may be obtained. Normally shifting mechanisms for this purpose include cams adapted to move these mechanisms positively in one direction and depend upon springs to shift them in the opposite direction. The present invention provides a direct mechanical connection, dispensing with all spi'ings for this purpose so that the presser device and trimming mechanism are positively moved in both right hand and left hand direction relatively to the line of stitching.

The present preferred form is disclosed in Figs. 1 and 5 and in Figs. 32, 33, and 34 particularly. Shifting of the trimmer mechanism 11 is accomplished through the provision of a flange 286 on a stud 281 adapted to enter a slot 288 in the shaft I41. A screw thread 288 on the stud 281 has a connection with a threaded sleeve 2I8 adapted to be locked in the upstanding lug I48 by a screw II I. A large knurled head III is provided on the stud 281 to manually rotate the screw. When the stud is turned in a right hand direction, the shaft I41 through the flange 288 is moved in a left hand direction to move the trimming mechanism closer to the needle and to the line of stitching and when moved in a left hand direction the flange moves the shaft to the right as viewed in Fig. 32 to shift the trimming mechanism farther away from the needle inorder to provide a wide overedge seam.

Coordinate movement and wide and narrow spacing of the presser foot I81 relative to the needle I20 is accomplished similarly by the same flange 206 engaging a slot 2Il inthe presser device shaft I 8I.

A finger 2ll suitably secured to the top of the tupstanding lug I49, as by the screws 2 and '2I I' or by either one of these when the plate is.

set ina. channel, is provided with an end 2H adapted to cooperate with peripheral groove sraduationsfli onlthehead 2I2 to indicate the extent of lateral shiitingof the presser device is rotated. As shown in Fig. 33 the screw sleeve 2I0 may 10 and trimming mechanism 'I'i when the headbe provided with an aperture 2I6 to receive the' from one type of adjusting mechanism to another.

Fig. 35 shows a modified form of adjusting mechanism 60a which is similar in many respects to that form just described in detail; however, it

is arranged for quick foot operation rather than for slow manual or hand operation. The main point of difference in this structure is that the screw stud 209a is provided with a much coarser pitch thread, preferably a double, triple, or' quad- 'ruple thread, and the head 2I2a of the screw is provided with an arm '2I8 adapted to be connected to any usual foot control mechanism as through one or both holes 2I9 at the outer ends of the lever.

As is clearly apparent in Figs. 35 and 37, the rearwardly extending arm may be provided with a screw 220 adapted to engage the top face of the work plate 60 to limit movement of the stud in a clockwise direction and thereby limit the movement of the fiange 206 and related presser device'and trimming device, through shafts I41 and IN respectively, toward the needle, thereby to provide a fixed stop to effect a predetermined narrow width of overedge seam margin. Similarly, a forwardly extending arm 2I8 on the head of the screw 209a may be provided with a similar adjusting screw 220' adapted to engage the topof the work plate to limit counter-clockwise movement of the screw and right hand travel of the flange 206 so that the presser device and trimming device, through the flange. 206, are moved to a predetermined position in order to obtain a predetermined wide overedge seam.

As may be seen best in Fig. 37, a coil spring 22I may be provided between the rearwardly extending arm 2"! and top of the work plate 60 in order to maintain said arm in a raised position so that the machine is normally in condition for producing the predetermined width of wide overedge seam. However, when the operator presses down on the'foot treadle, the arm 2I0 presses down on the spring 22I until the screw 220 engages the topof the work plate in order to produce the predetermined width of narrow overedge seam. By moving the coil spring 22I under the forwardly extending arm 2 I8', the reverse eifect is obtained.

- Somewhat similarly, but by omitting the springs entirely and providing two wires extending from a foot pedal arranged like a first class lever attached on the lower end, and to the forwardly and rearwardly extending arms 2I8' and The sleeve has a sliding fit with the bore 2 so that it is very easy to change 1 2i! respectively, it is possible to easily and quickly move the modified form of control 68 into either the wide or narrow overedge margin forming position without maintaining it in either of these positions against spring pressure.

It preferred, the head 2I2a on the screw 209a of the modified form of shifter (Fig. 35) may be of two piece construction having a knurled head 222 and a shank 223 accommodating a sleeve 224 which joins the two arms together. With this structure it is possible to eiiectmajor adjustments of the-shafts I41 and I6I with the flange 206 shifting the, presser device I9 and trimming mechanism 'I'i while the sleeve 224 is loose on the shank 223. When the major adjustment is effected, ascrew 225 on the sleeve may be tightened onto the shank, so that the arms 2IB and M8 may thereafter be used in order to effect quick shifting into predetermined wide and narrow overedge seam forming positions.

This modified shifter 80a (Fig. 35)., similar to the preferred form disclosed in Figs. 32 through 34, also has the advantage of providing a positive and mechanical control for shifting of the presser device and the trimming mechanism into both the wide and narrow seam forming positions and of dispensing with the use of uncertain functioning spring members for this operation. The

change from the manual control of Figs. 32

through 34 to the automatic or foot control arrangement of Fig. 35 is effected by merely loosenform of the invention shown in Fig. 35. Said screw and sleeveare slid axially into the bore 2|! whereupon the sleeve 2I0a is held in place .with the screw 2II.'

Anothermodified form of control 80b is shown in Fig. 36 which is very similar to that form shown in Fig. 35, differing mainly in the provision of helical half threads 226 and 221 adapted to engage with angularly disposed slots 228 and 229 in the shafts I61 and I6I' respectively and having a shank connection 230 with a plain sleeve '23I rather than the axially moved screw stud 209 connection in the first two forms of the adjusting mechanisms 80 and 80a just described. A collar 232 on the end of the shank 230 prevents axial movement of the stud 2091) in the sleeve 23I which is located and held in proper axial position by the screw 2| I, as shown in Figs. 33 and '34. This form of the invention has the advantage of dispensing with the two part head construction just described in connection with Fig. 35 since major adjustments may be effected by merely shifting the sleeve 23l axially in the bore 2I'l without turning the arms 2IB'and 2I8, then tightening the screw 2I I.

Feeding mechanism Ill) machine by the control lever, either by hand, foot treadle, or knee shift. Regardless of the speed of which the machine is operating this shift will change the motion of the feed on the work so as to cause it to gather if the movement of the diflerential feed is greater than that of the main feed.

Suitable feed teeth or surfaces and differences of feed will enable not only gathering, but also shirring of the material or ruflling or pleating, within the limits andscope of the arrangement and design of the parts. -That is to say, if the differential feed has but one tooth to contact with the work, it will permit the work or material to fold upon itself, forming distinct ruffles or pleats. If sufficient action be given to the differential feed, a distinct pleat can be effected.

On the other hand, if the differential feed contacts with a larger portion of the material, as for instance, several teeth are brought to bear, the effect is a shirring or gathering action, rather than a pleat or fold. The goods is pushed together, so to speak, and that is the desired function in most cases, especially on knitted and other soft fabrics.

Cooperating with the feeds must be a suitable presser foot to hold the materials against the feed, and a great variety of effects can be produced by special designs of presser feet. The length of the foot, the shape of the pattern end, the width of its bearing surface on the goods, and the amount of pressure, all of which must be considered and arranged to bring about the desired function and effect of the differential feed.

The differential feeding mechanism 84 and control mechanism therefor is much more completely described in a copending application Serial No. 27,773, filed June 21, 1935, and in the present disclosure, as can bebest seen in Figs. 3, 4, 7, 10, 12,

' 12A, 13 and 18, comprises a feed dog carrier 285 having a pivotal connection 236 with a shaft 231 on a feed rocker frame 238. A primary feed dog I89 is secured to the front end of the main carrier 235 (Figs. 4, 7, and 18) with a screw 242 (Fig. 18) and a differential feed dog I90 may also he slidably secured thereto by a screw 243 (Fig. 7). Both feed dogs reciprocate in a slot 244 in a needle plate 245 (Fig. 4). Substantially midway of its length the carrier 235 is provided with a feed-lift connection 246 (Fig. 9) including a split bearing 241 fitting upon the crank II6 of the main drive shaft 8I which in turn slides in an elongated slot 248 (Figs. 9 and 18).

A feed rocking connection 249 (Figs. 4, 7, and 12) is provided to impart variable extents of movement to materials on the work plate 60 under the presser device 19 and relative to the needle I20 and primary feed dog I89. Main feed rocking movement of the carrier 285 and primary feed dog I89 secured thereto, is effected by a rearwardly extending crank-arm 250 connected to the adjustable eccentric I04 by a bearing 25I at the front end and at the back end by bearing 252 (Fig. 13) to the sleeve shaft 231 or the rocking frame 238 which is pivoted on the sleeve 239 in bearings 240' and MI on the webs 240 and HI of the work plate 60. By moving the eccentric I04, less and greater feed rocking movement is imparted to the frame 238 and carrier 235.

In order to effect the major adjustments of the eccentric I 04 on the head 98 for various extents of feed, the present invention provides a hole II8 and a slide 8' in the workplate 60 (Fig. 2) so that it is possible to move the adjusting screw I I0 (Fig. 4) with a screw driver alone, when the nut III is tightened only enough to insure a snug sliding fit rather than a locked fit ,between the eccentric I04 and head 98 (Fig. 10). When it is desired to have a lock fit, a wrench may be passed down through an opening I83a (Fig. 2). Thus, it is not necessary to .lift the work plate whenever major adjustments are made to the eccentric.

The mechanism for moving the differential feed dog I90 (Figs. 4, 7, and 10) comprises the mechanism just described and a forwardly extending crank arm 254 connected to the eccentric I04 at one end, and at its other end having a pivot connection 255 with a block 256 slidably mounted oh 9. link 251 (Fig. 4). The upper end of link 251 is connected to a differential feed dog carrier 258, which is slidable in a slot 259 in the main carrier 285. The carrier may be made of two pieces with interchangeable sections 235a held together by screws 2352). if preferred. At its lower end the link 251 is pivoted on a stud 26I. Divers differential feed dogs I90 may be connected to the differential feed dog carrier 258.

Viewing Fig. 4, it will be seen that the connection 254 extending from the driving crank, and the slide block 256 can be shifted up and down on the curved arm 251. When the block is shifted to the highest position on the curved arm, the angular relation of the connection 254 is changed a number of degrees from the position shown. This effects a slight change in timed relation. Instead of the two feeds working in unison or as one feed, when the parts are shifted to the highest position, there is a slight retarded movement to the feed dog I90. The movement is slower than the movement of feed I 89 because the crank is operating in a direction towards the top or working surface of the machine.

This lifting motion on the bearing end of the connection 254 causes this retarded movement, which has a slight stretching effect on loose and sleazy materials. On the other hand, when the connection is sifted down to its lowest position, there is an advanced timed relation and movement to the differential feed 84 in relation to the main feed I89. This is important to bring about the wide range of effects desired in stitching different kinds of materials. All of these effects are instantaneously produced during the gperation of the machine by shifting the lever Since it is important to accurately position the differential feed I90 with respect to the main feed I89, an eccentric bushing 262 (Fig. 10) is provided that fits over the screw 26I. This bushing operates in the bearing and is clamped in fixed relation by nut 26I tapped into the curved arm 251. By loosening the nut 26I and turning this bushing, the arced relation of the arm 251 is changed so that as the slide block 256 is shifted up and down, the feed dog I90 may be brought to a position very close to the main feed I89, while in another position, the adjustment of this eccentric bushing will cause a considerable space to be maintained between the back left hand edge of the differential feed 84 and the front right hand edge of the feed I89, leaving a space between the two, which permits goods to expand or enter therebetween as it is carried past the stitching position. Then too, this adjustment is very important when the machine is arranged for making 20 stitches to the inch under certain requirements, or on the other hand, making a 

